Tony’s Pizza Gallery

When he first told me he loves me, I thought Tony was a little nutty, but it turns out he loves everyone. Well, everyone who visits more than once.
Nestled in a desolate shopping center in a questionable town, Tony’s is not an upscale eatery. The interior is dark and very circa 1976 sub shop with additional seating in a dark paneled, dark carpeted hallway festooned with dim hanging lamps. The tables are bare; atop them sit paper place mats printed with a map of Italy.
The lunch wait staff consists of two sisters who call you «Hon» and can sometimes be seen smoking outside. Both look like Bea Arthur, which is comforting.
People quickly become regulars here, not just because Tony professes his love for you and because Bea Arthur waits on you and calls you «Hon.» Mostly people frequent this place because the food is amazing.
The pizza is a standout. The crust is thin and crisp on the bottom, thick on the edges. The sauce is delicious, the cheese plentiful. My two favorites are: The Primavera — a white pizza with freshly chopped and perfectly cooked broccoli, spinach, tomatoes, and garlic. The Marea — which you can get red or white (get the red). It has basil, chopped clams and chopped bacon and you’ll eat more of it than your stomach can comfortably handle.
Cheese steaks are delicious — just greasy enough, made of tender, chopped rib eye slices and heaps of American cheese, served on Atlantic City bread. Tony’s is one of the few places in the area that still uses hard AC bread, to great effect. The hard bread soaks up the grease and cheese in a most delightful way.
The Italian dishes are also impressive, most notably the clams and linguine in either red or white (both are very good and wine-​y), the shrimp fra diavolo, and especially the eggplant rollatini.
It’s a shame only the locals know about this place and the tourists only go to overpriced Italian restaurants in AC. Or is it?