Indie Chefs Week

Collaboration of 12 Chefs each doing a course at a pop-​up venue, Taco Maria in Costa Mesa, CA, which is the first time for Indie Chefs’ Week outside of the state of Texas. Camaraderie to help compose their fellow chef’s chef d’oeuvre was heart warming. Each chef assisted peers to present a dish worthy for the guests who attended this noteworthy meeting of innovative chefs.
0) Adonis: Alvear Amontillado Sherry, Maurin Quina sweet vermouth, bitters, orange oils & absinthe. Citrusy, smoky, fruity, licorice sweet bitterness dating back to the 19^th century to whet the appetite.
1) Poached Kanpachi/​amberjack was Sashimi-​like in Dashi/​Japanese broth w/​Chocolate, Japanese Fuyu & unripe Hachiya persimmon which added bitter astringency. Perhaps aburi/​searing the Kanpachi would have added a more textural interest. Nice play of sweet fruit & fall seasonal since persimmons only ripen in fall.
2) Chicken Liver Mousse was ultra moussed w/​a slug of whiskey to add an alcoholic richness. Agave/​Texas peach confiture added requisite sweetness w/​a local sour/​smoky sumac powder. «Frito Chips» added dense crispiness. Corn Custard signaled last of summer’s offerings.
1−2a) A Pinot Noir Blush wine by Macrostie Vinyards, Sonoma: mineral laden, wild strawberry, raspberry, nice acidity to refresh the palate.
3) Poached squid rings, well done chorizo sausage, basil, Arbequina Olive Oil. Sweet rings of squid in a meaty, spicy chorizo infused oil olive. Tomato Confit was a good gastrique to the fattiness.
3a) St. Peter Belgian Pale Ale by Cismontane Brewing Co. Yeasty, crisp, sweet yet w/​a sour tone to counter the fatty, spiciness.
4) Blood Pudding: looked like chocolate bars w/​an herbed haemato-​meatiness soft like a dry flan. Grilled wafer of pecorino cheese was crispy & milky, pepita/​pickled lemon sauce, dash of cured egg yolk & grated solid beef blood. Complex dish that edged on meaty flavours that never hinted blood.
4a) Pinot Noir from Macrostie; brandied cherries, oaky smokiness, fruity «cough syrup» w/​grapy medium body.
5) Squash cooked w/​Dashi/​Japanese broth & Shellfish: Squash rings poached in Dashi w/​fresh Italian pasley. Nice palate cleanser between bouts of meat driven savory.
6) Chicken Heart Purée: like a liver pâté without the livery flavour. Pomegranate/​honey sauce, sweet mustard seed pickle, vinegar infused dried apple slice. Harks to charcuterie w/​contrasting sweet/​acid components to enliven the heavy meatiness.
6a) CA Lager: yeasty, brown sugar, alkaline scent was a good counter weight to the hearty pureed chicken meat. Cismontane
7) Hibiscus & Fernet Branca Cured Copper River Salmon: Roasted Cucumber for vegetal respite, Rose Hip Honey, Strong ginger infused yogurt, pistachio. Smooth velvety raw cured salmon, agrodolce undertones to contrast to the salty salmon.
7a) Chardonnay by Macrostie had touch of sour apple, lightly oaky, mild malolactic fermentation for a slight milkiness.
8) Sweet Breads/​Ris de Veau: fried in thin buttermilk batter, crunchy celery, creamy aioli: Meaty, rich dish; full of cholesterol, but oh-​so-​good.
8a) St. Peter Belgian Pale Ale aged in Chardonnay barrels by Cismontane.
9) Achiote Cured Snapper Taco al Vapor: silky, dense velvety meat, dressed w/​sweet-​acidic piquant jalapeño/​pineapple salsa. Bit of chicharron. Refreshing from the heaviness of the previous dish.
9a) XPA Pale Ale by Cismontane: Bone dry, slightly bitter, red oak aged
10) Smoke Duck had a super great bacon cured smoky taste, Chanterelle Pudding was eggy w/​a mocha sweet bitter sauce, black garlic by Chef Smith.
10a) Black’s Dusk: imperial stout by Cismontane. Sweet treacle, mellow, peppery green herbals.
11) Roasted Bone Marrow Tortellini en Brodo: chewy al dente thick, rustic tortellini pasta stuffed laboriously by hand w/​fatty, cheesy meat driven savory in a broth of chicken feet & ox simmered for 36 hours.
11a) Pinot Noir
12) Rib of Beef, fermented onions Shishito/​Japanese pepper; thin meat enlivened by sour, piquant flavours.
12a) Pinot Noir Macrostie
13) Matsutake, maple syrup, watermelon on roasted Onigiri/​Japanese rice «ball»: Radical reinvention of traditional savory elements transmogrified into a creamy dessert. I was always used to Matsutake mushrooms being used for Japanese soups/​custards, but Chef Maslow turned my head inside out to accept radical innovation. Kudos.
13a) Cashew & Pear Tree: Kochere coffee, espresso, pine simple syrup, orange oil. Predominantly coffee flavoured dessert drink.
14) Yuzu Lime Tart: Nice light citrus refreshing lightly creamy To-​fu tart: Chef Thornton was wise in knowing his dish was after a marathon meal so he kept the flavour profile satisfying w/​a buttery crust, green tea, honey, coconut, leaving a light taste.
14a) Atole: a thickened corn masa drink from Meso America infused w/​spices & Mezcal from the agave in Oaxaca.