Remillard Park

Great beginner’s climbing. We set up our top rope anchor pretty quickly, there’s a 5.2 free solo up a chimney to get on top of the main rock, followed by a quick & easy repel off. Bring some slings! You’ll need them to anchor in. We then climbed a 5.7, 5.9, and 5.10 a from the same anchor, the first two being variations on the same route.
Don’t miss the bouldering around back!
I ended up leaving my cordelette/​quad with 4 carabeiners and two slings up on top Friday 5/​17, went back Saturday ⁵⁄₁₈ and they were gone. If you got my anchor, get at me! I’ll slip you $ 20.

After finding this park via a guide book, I played resident expert to some of the families climbing around on the giant boulder in the middle of the park. Knowledge is nothing if not shared right?
We set up a top rope on the big boulder and did a few half ass’ed climbs. Not for lack of will, but for lack of feeling in fingertips. Outdoor rock climbing is not a winter sport … (drinking is though …)
Still it’s a darling little park with darling little children watching me climb. (I had to hold back the cursing … I managed to scare the kids away with a well intentioned «hey kid, you’re next»)
You park and then you climb. There’s even a picnic bench right next to the rock. I’ll be back in the summer time … in the meantime, I’m drinkin’

first off, this is a rock climbing review only. second, it’s really only a review of my experience, since i did not get to climb this very fun looking set of routes that likely would have earned 5 stars. see, i showed up on a weekday early afternoon, expecting to maybe run into a couple of other friendly like minded climbers… instead, some summer camp type group with maybe 15 or 20 kids (all under the age of 10) and a couple of teenage «guides» had hung ropes from EVERY SINGLE ANCHOR. i say hung ropes because there was not actually a single person climbing – they were all sitting around talking and having lunch with the kids.
maybe i’m just overly bitter because i didn’t get to climb… i mean it is cool that the kids are getting outdoors and all, but it does not seem right that a public park is being used as a profit generating tool for a private business (i’m sure the parents paid dearly to get their kids out there, and the «guides» who wouldn’t let us use their ropes were certainly being paid by the hour).
so if you want to climb this rock in the summer, i suggest you show up really early, take over all the anchors, and then tell the summer camp kids to beat it when they show up.

this is a special rock. i think it’s better than indian rock park, definitely more private. fun to climb up & sit ur booty with ur hunny for a while. quick & easy urban adventure.

While the small playground is great for neighborhood kids, it’s likely I won’t here for other reasons than to reach higher ground.
There are two main welded tuff crags ranging from 5.7 to 5.11 though the bulk of the climbs are in the intermediate range. The bolts are easily accessible, though you should take along some 4′ long slings. Be sure to come prepared with water as there’s no spigot (or restroom for that matter.)
The open spaces aren’t big enough for frisbee or the like, but the trails are pleasant though short. It’s a solid spot to stay for a picnic as the grass is verdant and cool, shaded by magnificent trees, eucalyptus permeating the air. Breathe deeply, you’re out of the city.

i came here a few times to practice with my hoop in a quiet place, expecting some open space. it was more of a trail with some afterthoughts: there’s a children’s playground, and lots of trees, but not really anywhere to roam. there’s a bit of rock climbing, as well, although i can’t testify as to how difficult/​easy it is.
the reason i haven’t been here lately? the last time i visited, when i was leaving there was this creepy guy hanging out nearby in his car who tried to engage me in some sleezy conversation. yuck.