G Pop-Up

Went there for the ramen pop up. It was good. I would say order the pork misho. Skip the tonkatsu ramen… very strong on ginger flavor. Impressed compared to toki underground.

It is not uncommon these days for a renowned chef to have a less formal sideline venture to offer customers fast and relatively inexpensive lunch options. G, which will serve an array of Italian inspired sandwiches and which debuts as a week-​long pop-​up shop inside Graffiato, is that for Chef Mike Isabella.

As a lunchtime concept, G’s pop-​up menu offers a choice of four sandwiches; but, of the four, only the roasted suckling pig sub actually gets preferential treatment with billing on the sandwich board outside. And, it is clear why. The suckling pig is outstanding and an obvious signature item. Moist and beautifully tender, the shredded pork is dressed with fresh broccoli rabe, gooey provolone, and is smeared with a cherry pepper mayo that hovers over each bite. This is no ordinary sub, and its special characteristics are evident.

Although less noteworthy, the chicken parm sandwich, Isabella’s take on the Italian classic, is delicious too. The tender breaded chicken filet is covered with mozzarella and a lively tomato sauce that offers intermitant hints of (of all things)…Thai basil. The combination works well.
The sides that I tried play their parts as complements with mixed results. The roasted cauliflower is a great foil. With a residue of char, the florets are spiked with a citrusy pecorino mint vinaigrette that bolsters its relatively neutral host.
The Ceasar salad, in contrast, is rather unremarkable. Featuring fresh squares of romaine, the salad is tossed with very little dressing and is consequently too dry. The only redeeming note is the whimiscal addition of croutons that are made from fried cubes of cream cheese.
The pop-up’s lone dessert offering, carnival style zeppole, are little spheres of fried dough that make for a satisfying finish. They are remarkably delicate but firm and reveal a soft, plush interior.
Based on today’s pop-​up debut, Mike Isabella’s G Sandwich Shop is going to fare well once it opens sometime this summer at 14^th & W Streets, NW. Sure, his celebrity will draw in the public at first; but, the lunch menu itself, simple yet well executed (and, a tasting menu by night… which is yet to be revealed), will undoubtedly all conspire to win Chef Isabella much success.